Recipe | Focaccia three ways, from breakfast to supper

A tray of sea salt focaccia is the most useful thing in a kitchen for the next two days.

Morning: split it, warm it and spread cultured butter across the cut face. Midday: layer aged cheddar and heirloom tomato, then press it in a hot pan. Evening: tear it into a bowl of roasted vegetables and let it soak up the oil.

Nothing here needs a recipe card — only good bread and a little salt.